The torture of travel.

Travel- is an English word that is derived from the French equivalent as per the below….

Main Entry: tra·vail

Pronunciation: \trə-ˈvāl, ˈtra-ˌvāl\

Function: noun

Etymology: Middle English, from Anglo-French, from travailler to torment, labor, journey, from Vulgar Latin *trepaliare to torture, from Late Latin trepalium instrument of torture, from Latin tripalis having three stakes.

Indeed as I write this, several hundred travelers are stranded in the UK as a result of yet another tour operator going bust, in this case “Golden Trails”. Passengers holding tickets and hotel bookings from this firm find they are not worth the paper they are written on. So to the point, why do we travel when indeed for some it is possibly a paid form of self induced torture?

Speaking of induced torture, earlier in June I found myself rushing to leave the safe and embracing confines of the Dalian Shangri-La Hotel to get to the airport in time for my much anticipated flight back to Shanghai to connect onwards to Hong Kong after several grueling weeks on the road throughout China. Sadly no one at the hotel bothered to advise me that both in and outbound flights had in fact been suspended. Without boring all and sundry with the details, I then spent 7 laborious hours in Dalian Airport waiting for fog to lift (yes fog in summer!!!)

So again we beg the question of travel? The writer Paul Theroux boldly goes against the grain and is more than forthright on his thoughts on places and faces he encounters abroad. Similarly so I often leave people aghast with my candid views on places afar for example:

India – When asked on my thoughts on India I advise that the best part is leaving. Need I say more?

Singapore – Love the place…. especially the departure lounge.

Beijing – I can’t find a bad word that would suitably express my negative thoughts, so I guess I have nothing bad to say?

So I am being too negative you may say? There are divine places however, Thailand, Bali and Sicily, spring to mind. As does my adopted home city of Hong Kong. But when people with considerable un-contained glee tell me they are travelling, I express to them my sincere commiserations. To the average traveler, not as blessed as I with elite levels of frequent traveler memberships or an APEC travel card, the normal traveler faces long queues at the airport and immigration leaving and entering any country they visit. The same for boarding any aircraft. So with so much time taken up by these activities alone does the average traveler simply have too much time on their hands?

Personally, I adore, fast check-in, quick immigration clearance and equally speedy priority boarding. This leaves more time for the fun things in life, such as duty free shopping or simply extra time in the airline lounge to enjoy more champagne.

So whether it’s self induced torture for a quick trip away or a much needed business trip to meet up with clients, travel is here to stay. I will leave you with this thought, note that one airline is actually touting standing only flights, it makes regular economy suddenly seem appealing.

So wherever your travels may take you, on a wing and a prayer wishing you a safe trip.

Anthony Arrigo is an exasperated traveler living in Hong Kong.

Divine Dining - Cafe Gray Deluxe

Divine Dining – Hong Kong

The Restaurant

The city of Hong Kong certainly has no shortage of divine dining options; from cheap and cheerful to stratospheric on the wallet, the choice even beguiles the best buffet.

It’s a tough call out there with so many new restaurants opening and so many going by the wayside, but once in a while something special comes along, truly special, that elevates a meal from just eating out to an experience. Once such place opened not too long ago. That place is Café Gray Deluxe. Master minded by renowned Chef Gray Kunz, this unique venue offers substance along with style.

Location

In the heart of Pacific Place, lies the Upper House Hotel, being the inaugural Hong Kong Hotel for the Swire group. Just getting to the restaurant is an experience in itself; certainly in the evening the ambiance sets the tone for what’s in store. While modern minimalism is a feature of the Hotel, making ones way up the long sleek escalator with warm teak wood hues gives way to a lift lobby that then takes you to the top floor of the Hotel wherein lies on the 49^th Floor Café Gray Deluxe. A short candle lit hall leads to the interior. With the bar and cosy semi private booths on the right and the main dining area straight ahead, the inimitable style and refined aesthetics are both soothing and sophisticated.

Service

It’s not that hard to build and create a great looking restaurant, however, while one can build and create the most amazing places on earth it takes people to make them a reality. This is where Café Gray Deluxe exceeds expectations. Quality service should always be unobtrusive yet professional and efficient. Café Gray Deluxe is both. More than that, it’s carried out in a genuinely caring manner. Making this a place where casual meets sheik with attention to service. On our visit our service was superb and again proves that in Hong Kong, it is indeed the five star hotels that can attract and retain quality people.

Food

While there has been “mixed” reports in the media on the food, on our visit we ordered a variety of dishes, all of which were both enticing and delicious. Mixed Oysters with Crab legs (the latter already carefully slice open for easy access) being tastefully presented on a bed of ice, both the Oysters and the Crab were of the freshest and finest. Other dishes to follow where: Pork Chops tenderly cooked with a nice selection of vegetables, a whole Lemon Sole cooked to perfection with a tangy light lemon sauce, and Beef Cheeks, being tender and gelatinous accompanied by a light sauce and medley of vegetables. Now this is were some other reviews had differing thoughts, but my point is this. Good food done well, prepared fresh and with attention to detail is the key to success. It is a simple as that, and while some diners may have different conceptions or follow other fads in reality there is no need for food to be convoluted or complicated. This is where Café Gray Deluxe excels, with quality produce and a traditional approach, neither will never go out of style.

Overall it further elevates the dining status for which Hong Kong is famous. Dining at Café Gray Deluxe can be like dining anywhere else in the world and certainly comparable to, Tokyo, London, Paris and New York. No doubt the fact the Chef Gray Kunz, spent sometime at a very successful establishment in New York, evokes a major influence in this dining venue.

Personally I can’t wait to go back there!

http://www.cafegrayhk.com/

(This is an unbiased independent review, the visit was unannounced and the meal paid for)

Shanghai...but not as I knew it!

It's all about Shanghai baby!

Shanghai has always had a very special place in my heart, having lived there for a number of years some time ago, to go back to one's own "stomping ground" again and again years later and the memories come flooding back. This city, one time called the Paris of the east, well on my recent stay taking into account the sky rise glitz and madly lit up buildings, it now has a lot less to do with Paris and more to do with Las Vegas!

LED mania has stuck the city with both the buildings on the Bund and the boats themselves all sparkling with LED lights. All very pretty but seemingly superficial.

Looking at Shanghai now it does however, seem more sexy the ever. The vibe, the glam of the Pearl Tower, hovering over the city like a giant out of place sex toy. Honestly the architects of that building must have had some seriously repressed sexual tension when they designed and erected that thing.

The Pearl Tower aside, what makes Shanghai tick these days? While gone are the days of the Soong sisters and gang of four, there are new gangs. Gangs of uber upper middle class Chinese. Only 10 years ago the extent of their nightlife and social life would have been un heard of. Now days they are both hip and happening mingling with the adventurous expat and visiting business person in the sleek bars and stylish restaurants of Shanghai, the Bund and Xiantidi.

One new hotel is the Gran Melia, part of the Spanish chain it brings a warm Euro tone. Embracing the motto of “ Timeless Luxury with an avant-garde flair”. A large and impressive building, this is indeed one the most spectacular Shanghai Hotel openings of late. While on the Pudong side of the Bund it is still close to the established part of Shanghai with easy access to the major shopping and business areas near Nanjing Road.

Featuring a feast of restaurants dedicated to Spanish, Italian, and Chinese cuisines. All presented with flair and style. Service is timely and food quality excellent. From a room point of view, guests will notice that comfort and luxury are key, matched with outstanding bathrooms and amenities. All complemented with the usual appointments truly befitting a five star deluxe Hotel. Bund view rooms are a must and provide a superb view both day and night.At the end of one’s day a trip to the Spa level on the 30^th floor, will not disappoint. Indeed the layout of the Jacuzzi and space age relaxation grotto, complete with stunning views make for a true escape.

http://www.gran-melia-shanghai.com/en/

Meanwhile, over on the established side of Shanghai, a one time historic Art Deco building has been lovingly and faithfully restored to become the Langham Yangtze Shanghai. This boutique hotel with less the a hundred rooms represents the epitome of style, charm and grace of old Shanghai. Nestled close to the Bund this Hotel quite simply has become Shanghai’s “Pièce de résistance”. As a boutique Hotel, the property defines the meaning; the attention to detail and design along with sumptuous comfort is paramount. Upon entering the Hotel your every sense is filled, the “Langham Aroma” being an actual scent designed to complement the hotel greets you like a warm jasmine filled summer evening, then your eyes take in the subdued focus of warm muted and red tones, all this along with a Chinese Xither playing certainly strikes the right cord providing what is the ultimate welcome of any Hotel in Asia. At the same time I was fortunate enough to also be personally greeted by the Hotels charming Managing Director, Henk Meyknecht.

Once settled in, the room’s appointments complete with three balconies’ which includes one off the bathroom, sets the scene for what is most certainly a memorable stay. The elegant tones extend to each of the Hotels guest rooms. In both style and comfort you feel like you have stepped back in time but with all the convenience of modern living. Lush carpeting, massive bathrooms complete with a built in plasma television set into the bathroom wall just above the bath itself is an extra indulgence. The attention to authentic Art Deco detail even extends to the air-conditioning grills in the ceiling, so as to subtly blend in with stunning décor.

The Hotels dining selection, with an Italian style Café-Deli, Japanese and Chinese restaurants gives you even more reason to simply stay in. I dinned with Henk in Ciao, the Italian Café; we both enjoyed the Baked Salmon with Fettuccini accompanied by a home made selected of bread and foccacia. The food and service excellent both sublime in a casual yet refined ambiance and the perfect end to the evening.

http://yangtzeboutique.langhamhotels.com/

The best thing about Shanghai is to experience all the new things it has to offer, it’s great to have this combined with some charm of yesteryear. To watch out for is the soon to open and also Art Deco, the renowned Peace Hotel, managed by Fairmont.

Time for Thai with a twist... Review Ayuthaiya

It’s Thai food but not as we know it...








Time for Thai food with a positive twist. Ayuthaiya at 35 Hollywood Road Central is a welcome addition along a familiar stretch of divine dinning venues. Christina and I decided on something different for a change, wanting an escape from the same old same old but yet still close to home (or at least staggering distance.)

Ayuthaiya is the Aqua’s group latest venture in Soho, from a décor point it is a genuine and successful attempt at re creating the feel of a Thai timber residence; more than that, they have a Thai Chef in house and on site so you can be assured of quality. Any new Restaurant is faced with several key challenges – Ambiance, service and food quality. One which Ayuthaiya, I am pleased to say has all under control. From a very professional yet friendly and welcoming arrival, to prompt and pleasant service throughout. They have made the most of a small 2 level area seating around 40 persons. While the location is good it always irks me that these places leave the front doors entirely pulled open, okay if you have a calm ocean view perhaps, but not so if it faces a busy, noisy polluted main street. So it’s a tepid attempt at al fresco, but thankfully the rear tables provide some relief to this and if one wants seclusion and bit of quiet then there is always the upstairs, so this place has created something for everyone.

Now for the twist in the tale of Thai food. It is Thai Tapas at its very best. Christina and I enjoyed Mixed Satay of beef, chicken and pork with an excellent sauce to match. Prawn Cakes, tasty and crispy if with just a touch too much oil residue. The chicken Pandan being one the best I have tasted outside of Thailand (and I have lived there on two occasions). This left the final course to be the Pièce de résistance … the Soft shell Crab mango and avocado rolls. Summed up they are to die for! If I ever have a final meal request then this would be it. Subtle tang with ginger overtones blended perfectly with mango pieces and jus. This all consumed with copious amounts of house Merlot that all went down very well indeed.

Overall for the atmosphere, service, food and price, this place is way up there and a great place to go for Thai food with a twist.

Note all dining review visits are unannounced and all meals paid for.

Toxic Stew View ?

Hong Kong March 23, 2010. – Five star luxury hotels along the famed Hong Kong Harbour rightly boast and regale their prized prime positions. Facing one of the most spectacular skyline views in the modern world today. They are all here, Shangri-La Conrad, Peninsula, Four Seasons, W and a soon to open Ritz Carlton. In fact even some of the more modest digs may offer a world class view. Together with the spectacular array of buildings, a buzzing Harbour all set to a back drop of sharp edged hills in the distance.

However. this story really needs to begin like a fairy tale….”Once upon a time…” as that now days is the sad truth to it all. Like Disneyland on distant Lantau Island in Hong Kong, fresh air is but a fairy tale story, so distant is the chance to actually see the view over Hong Kong Harbour.

From my very first visits here over 15 years ago, when ever you checked into a hotel, the front desk staff would offer to up sell or up grade you to a Harbour view, notably with a 50% increase in your room rate, no doubt cream on top for the Hotel revenue stream. But what can they say now…”thank you for choosing to stay with us…. now would you like a Toxic Stew View with that sir? That’s what it is now, a poisonous smoggy stew of humid air, combined with dust and pollution blown down from China along with Hong Kongs own mounting exhaust emissions. Visibility is so low the number of “potent” days of opaque glazing has doubled in the last ten years, earlier this week the level was recorded in excess of 300. A point that most cities would declare a state of emergency.

The fragrant Harbour has been fouled, and while locals and expats alike seemingly live in denial, the matter only gets worse. Forget masks for SARS or Swine Flu you need one just to get by on the streets. While we can all wash our hands to avoid the flu, one can only hope the local government wont continue to wash their hands of a crisis that, potentially is far worse and with far more enduring consequences that a bad cold.

Monday night at The Pawn

Monday night The Pawn Wanchai….


Back from my travels to sunnier parts and now back into the Hong Kong dining scene. A great way to start was Monday night at The Pawn in Wanchai. This proved to be as popular as ever. With the preview night of the Roof Top Garden providing party goers with the chance to see what’s on offer and enjoy excellent wine and food. Massimo and his team did an outstanding job and showed Hong Kong that good service, food and value can work hand in hand and attract the right crowd at the same time! The superb BBQ meat and Tuna was a real treat, with an emphasis on quality.


For those not in the know yet, the Roof Top at The Pawn is a great outdoor venue, made even better with the new offering of the all inclusive Sunday brunch starting the first week of April. This will feature quality BBQ food featuring classic British food fare, such as Roast Lamb and Beef with gravy and included is a fine selected of wine and beer.


So The Pawn continues to be the place to be at and be seen in Wanchai and is certainly the venue of choice for quality and consistency. All this and more in the simply beautiful setting of a restored colonial building.